Archive for the ‘Bush Sightings’ Category

Website update

Just a short message from the bush

Been a while since the last update posted, but much has happened in that time, almost too much for me to remember all the details. Have moved from the last lodge to one that is based inside the Kruger borders, have started here with the beautiful distraction for the last three weeks. Had a little gap off day during the move from the last lodge to our current home in the bush.

Exciting would be an understatement, there has been oodles of excitement and new things happening. goes with out saying that the sightings here at the new lodge are also truly awesome, from lions on tap, leopards in trees and buffalo herds of note, wildebeest eating cheetah, dogs on the road and many more.

Let me go a little deeper, the lion pride that abound around our current lodge are easier for us to locate, the reason being …we cheat. One of the females in the pride has a satellite collar attached that is used for research and only for research purposes, part of an ongoing study on lions in the Kruger. Bonus for us, we have access to that collar and can track there movement history and estimate where they may turn up. Yes not the way things are done and we do not abuse the system, but if that technology is there, why not use it. The rest we find with luck and hard work.

The dogs have been amazing; at only starting here for the last few weeks, I have already racked up more than 9 different sightings of different wild dog packs roaming in the area. Let me remind all that this is a massive area and that wild dog’s sightings are rare. So bully for me, love those guys!

Leopard density in the area is very very high, and still they are hard to spot, spot the spotted cat…ha ha sorry had to try. When we came in to start our new potion, on route in with my vehicles packed for the move in, and an awesome male leopard right next to the road? This must be an omen, a good luck sigh if you will

cheetah sighting, one of my best cheetah sightings yet, noticed a herd of impala running for there lives across the plains in the distance then crossing in front of me(here your live does depend on your running)  decided to wait and follow up and sure to believe it, three male cheetah emerged on the horizon, at first they were far and resting often, a binocular sighting, not too much to report, but p[patience in this game pays off, I sat it out and they came closer, however a herd of wildebeest close to us had other ideas, and decided to get closer to the cheetah and then promptly chare them? prey chasing predator around the three cheetah got separated from each other as the wildebeest ran amok, chasing one here then there, then in front of my vehicle and back across. the cheetah started chirping like birds to relocate each other when the dust had settled , very cool.

same stretch of road a few days earlier, saw a crash of rhino (yes a group is called a crash) and was observing and discussing them when another crossed the road in front of us, with one in tow 50 meters back. The big male at the far back then out of nowhere and for no reason charged and started to engage the other, a few meters away from us. Vicious and serious this fight was. Cruel to witness by great to record.

Well I am back in the saddle so to speak, and this was just a taste of my first two weeks at the new lodge, I promise to update and post photos soon, when the animals allow me.

Nocturnal

1.

of or pertaining to the night ( opposed to diurnal).

2.

done, occurring, or coming at night: nocturnal visit.

3.

active at night ( opposed to diurnal): nocturnal animals.

Let’s look at the last one on the list, night animals. These of course include the nocturnal predators such as lion, leopard and hyena. I have seen these many times in the day, I have even seen them hunt during day light hours, early morning or later afternoon, but they are classified as nocturnal, being more active at night. And more often than not they are active at night.

Currently our resident male lion has been ousted (see earlier telegraphs) this has left a vacuum for other male lions to stake there claim.

One such stake claiming is being done by 6 male lions that have moved into the area, they have snuck in under the cover of darkness and for a few weeks now, have been living-in and tasting the “what was” forbidden pleasures this area has to offer.

A while ago, they were loudly proclaiming this area, calling there trademark roars from the waterhole in the front of my camp. That very next morning I found them 10km away, on a buffalo kill, that 10km is still within our area of operation. Still within a prime territory for them to hold.

Lions often travel vast distances at night. That 10km at night and then have time to kill a buffalo was easy for them.

Less than a week ago and a week after there first buffalo kill here, they killed another big buffalo male, this time at my camp! Less than 100 meters from my front door! A racket and a big fight in the early hours of the morning, told us of there presence.

At 3.30am it started next to my house, and the fight took them thru the staff quarters to a site in the open where they performed the coup de grâce.  A site where we could view the remains the next morning, And the sleeping cats surrounding there prize carcass.

Only had a little sleep that night and the next, as lions and foreign guests sharing the same camp can be tricky.

Lion on buf

Last night whilst hosting guests for dinner, a hyena strolled through camp, unfortunately only the waiter and I saw this lonely male make his way through camp.

Lion on buf2

Every morning I read the signs (those that my limited tracking can decipher) to see who or what has been visiting us late at night and early in the morning while we people are still counting impala in our sleep.The lions have left the camp, and headed south again.

Other tracks also tell a story of noctunral vistors.

Civet is a regular to us at night. and on occasion hyena and leopard tracks.

Line up for lunch

The killed buffalo bull soon attracted a host of vultures; these fantastic birds (I like vultures) were adorning the surrounding trees at the entrance to our camp, waiting for the large cats to leave.

Viewing our camp from a little distance had a foreboding look about it, could make one feel uneasy.

On carcass

When the lions did leave,(there was plenty meat still on the bone) at this point a new spectacle was seen, the remains of the carcass covered and smothered by loud hungry vultures. They had waited patiently all night and a day for there chance, as did I. if you can stand the rotten smell, watching vultures squabble and fight over remains is a fantastic sight.

fighting for space

my share of the carcass

I am constantly amazed at what happens in the bush at night. We miss so much and can only deduce and hypothesis on what happened the following day.

Bushfire’s due to lighting strike, we are in the fire season at present, show a horizon glow from afar, three nights ago we saw a impressive fire in the reserve next to us. The horizon was orange and yellow from kilometers out, closer inspection saw a line of fire stretch as far as the eye can see. We hope that not too many creatures were caught up in this display of mother nature cleansing the bush.

End of the feast/day

Waiting for more

The sightings have been pumping, really well in the bush of late; can not even decide where to go on drive. We may plan a rough route to take, but within half an hour of game drive, the radio is buzzing. An awesome week to be out on game drive.

Shhh…crackle…pop..lions have killed… or 4 cheetah brothers next to the road..static..crackle… relocated on leopard cubs at…static

Really all the cats have been out and active, rhino, elephant, antelope and giraffe are all begging to have there photos taken.

Wanting to head north for a birds and trees drive, to relax and enjoy the smaller less talked about parts of the African bush, but the sightings keep calling us back, and we head off south or east to find again a beautiful creature.

At this point I must stress that these sightings and conditions is not the “normal”, the bush has just come alive this past week, and we rangers are taking full advantage.

There have been 6 male lions, a strong coalition of 5 young males along with a older and wiser male, they were first sighted and heard at the water hole outside our camp late at night, the next morning we tracked them down they had covered a considerable distance, about 10km from our water hole over night and still had time to kill a old buffalo bull, we converged on the scene as they were lazing about there kill with full extended stomachs. An awesome sighting

The two leopard cubs around the river road area, were hanging around the same patch for a few days so we could relocate them and view them on a few different occasions, one such occasion I took a chance in the morning and headed to that area, the reward was to witness the young female leopard execute a stalk on a herd of impala, we sat patiently for about a hour as we gauged her progress, in the end she failed in the final charge, but for that hour we had her, the adrenaline and excitement were palpable. Such a beautiful young lady in stalking mode, I was reminded again how hard it is to keep with them as she would stalk in and out of view as she used the local vegetation as cover. After having a good look at the leopard thru my binos,I explain that this female is still very young and  inexperienced, and may be punching a little over her weight class. Awesome morning

Our four cheetah brothers are back in our area of operation after not being seen for a month or two, they have returned from Kruger and are scent marking there old stomping ground, next to a leopard the cheetah is as beautiful and graceful. We may be lucky and they may stay in our area. Awesome again to see

Duikers, steenbok, stately giraffe, noisy zebra and other antelope are around, with the dry season not broken as yet, they are a little more few and far between but still there. And as much as the cats, predators and other big 5 are the most sought after, these others can not be ignored. We bumble thru the bush, me happily throwing a piece of information or two about the fauna and flora found here. I try to depart a piece here and there, but honestly the bush has spoken for itself and my guests are happy to simple drive around and enjoy the sightings.

We rangers have a little knowledge on the bush and always wish to share and show off, at the same time, the more we guides find out the more we need to find out more. A good guide will recognize that he/she does not know it all and learn everyday.

would love to have all the answers for the bush out here, but nature simply does its thing and we are the observers, who sometimes wonder and ask why…sometimes it is nice not to have natures answer and simply say ”Nature does as nature does”

Awesome week

Currently I am sitting in the sweltering heat, it is 37 degrees in the shade and it is only spring! I sit here cursing the fan in my office that does not work and contemplate the sightings and the bush around me.

Even though I am not out driving guests, not on drive as someone has to keep the camp running, that someone being me, I still get to view magnificent animal sightings.

I wish I had my camera with me at all times, I Drove to morning meeting at 7:30 this morning, and found two leopard cubs chilling in the road, stopped fairly close to them and admired there beauty, only then did I notice mum leopard keeping a eye on her cubs as well as us. After about 10 minutes she decided it was enough, collected her cubs and disappeared in the bush, three leopards on the way to work.

I write this in my aforementioned sweltering office, and I do so with a smile on my face, I smile because there are three elephants drinking out my pool, right now.  They are three male jumbos arranged in a neat line next to the pool, from biggest to smallest, slurping and spraying water all over the pool deck. Loving it, did I mention this is also lunch time for the guests, have an African lunch with the elephants, this could be scripted.

With no guests two days ago, I managed to organize an old land rover for a staff drive, two rangers and myself headed out looking for four legs and a heartbeat to photograph, we sat with fourteen lions in the shade for a few hours, yep fourteen lions lazing in the shade a mere three meters from our vehicle!, pity it was so hot and bad lighted for good photos. Still awesome to sit and observe.

Not so awesome was a resident territorial holder, our big male lion called mandevu (mandevu means bearded, or big big beard, hair thing) he decided to take away a legitimate kill from three youngsters that pop up in our area from time to time, this three youngsters are not so youngster anymore and did not want to share, would love to have seen the fight, but it was late at night, I caught up with him the next morning, he looked like he had been dragged over broken glass, very sore and sorry for himself, blood and lion hair dotted the road at the scene. He will make it but will not roar or advertise his presence for a while. In fact he may be lucky to survive this one.

Beaten up lion

Late afternoon traffic at the waterhole in front of the lodge, currently we have a hippo bull in the shallows, trying to keep cool and count a few sheep, or is that count a few hippo cows? The water barely covers half of him, alongside him and amazingly he tolerates it, is a small herd of buffalo bulls. Drinking and mud wallowing around the sleeping hippo. The baboons circle the trees around, a few impala and wildebeest are coming and going, drinking albeit a nervous drink. In the shade are some waterbuck, desperately trying to stay out of the direct sun.

And watching me watch this menagerie of animals is my resident bushbuck, cute little fellow eyeing me out from five meters away.

Ilana on the way back from morning meeting saw a yellow billed hornbill, eating a mouse, a kill was seen! It counts as a kill to us.

Not out driving, but still so much to see…

No5

Short version of this commentary is about bush/lodge vehicles,

Long version below, is the author being long winded in saying he has a character full vehicle, and that he dig’s it.

Every ranger, or lodge employee usual has either a vehicle assigned or if not assigned they have a favorite out of the vehicle pool, this is no exception for me, I too always have that favorite out of the selection of either mala-mala green or khaki colored vehicles that are stationed at a lodge.

Let me start off with saying that by no stretch of the imagination am I a mechanic, and that as said mechanic I could adjust or fix that worn vehicle that I have acquired out of the mound that is called the “lodge pool”. I have to treat it well, as my own baby and not drive it like I stole it.

I have to make do with what is there. And make it run for another couple of years, of course a couple of years are relative, a couple could mean ten…make that old vehicle work beyond his expire date.

Secondly, a vehicle (“mover”, as it is called out here) is either a skorokoro or is new.

Skorokoro is an African expression, it means too-old-to-work and new means the lodge owner spent some. More likely to get the former than the latter driving around lodges.

No in-betweens, either you see a out the box and be sure you do not scratch it on the hundreds of obstacles like branches, rocks, thorns, spikes and just about anything else out in the bush, or… you have the old faithful, the lodge run about that has a engine that will not die under a body that has been scratched on all the obstacles mentioned before. They are more than likely temperamental, stubborn, leaks some or other fluid and a general pain in the…

With the above in mind, I usually tend to lean to these skorokoro’s, as they have character, have seen the bush and been around the block (a few times). And yes you saw it coming, I can scratch it them. They are also the ones that usual pull the new boys out of the trouble!

I do consider myself a careful and aware driver, however all people of all ages think they are “good” drivers. All would judge themselves as “road savvy”.

Bush driving people are no different, all handle it differently and we all would consider our driving up to standard. With all these “good” drivers using these vehicles and taking into account the roads and topography these vehicles travel on and sometimes through. Parked wherever, during the dry and the wet season (everybody gets stuck in the mud in the wet, sooner than later) one could with out a doubt say that the vehicles take a beating from all sides. They get skorokoro very quickly.

This is the abuse no5 has taken over a few years; he has been there and done that, seen it and abused it.

I got no5, I took him (yes him, tired of vehicles always being a she) under my care. That is I was told to use it and make it work and treat it like gold.

As I have said I reckon I am no worse than most and have gently coaxed this vehicle around the bumpy, dusty and need-a-grader roads we have here. And I have fallen in love with him (in a heterosexual way!)

He is a character.

If no5 starts first thing in the morning I am lucky, if the diesel gauge is even close to being in the vicinity of accurate I am happy, the lights working  is a luxury I am happy without and the brakes braking are a bonus.

Last night I was reminded that no5 got me there and back, no complaints. Was a great little night excursion that made me ponder this vehicle I have been using.

Last night I took my no5 with another ranger, a few guests (and a radio for backup) on a night drive, we had heard the lions roaring a km from camp and after dinner set out to find them.

At this point all the character of no5 came out, engine coughed into life barely (feeling lucky) tried the head lights, and here is that fun loving spirit that is no5, if the lights  go one, the engine dies? Go figure? There was a slight burning smell emitting from under the bonnet and the front left wheel was shaking, the other ranger lent out during the trip and casual remarked that it looked like it was buckling? We found those lions using my hand torch to navigate instead of headlights and got back safe. No spotlight in no5

No5 would not start this morning, had to tow it and get it started with no9, had to do this in reverse! No9 is another story, no doors, no back seat, hollowed out front seat where the springs have given in, zero tread on tyres, not even a dashboard…oddles of character… another story.

No5 has no cover, so when driving down to the reserve airstrip you are boiling in the sun, make sure you do not leave the seat for too long at the airstrip, as this will heat up and when you get back in, you burn from above and below (wearing shorts on this seat does not help, exposed skin to the metal surface of a oven would be a comparison)

No5 has no backfire but a mean bellow of smoke when started, do not stand behind no5.

No5 may be a little bit aesthetically pleasing to the eye, pleasing that is, if you are a man that does not mind that it is raised at the back quite high as if it has been “pimped out” and has a paint job that holds the rust in place.

No5 is where the girlfriend cut her teeth on buffalo, driving through a herd 200+ on her second day.

No5 has transported staff too and throw, including the overweight chef, up and down.

No5 has come thru the raining season, remember with no cover, and was high but not dry at the end, now worries and no complaints.

I have used no5 to pull out a game viewer a lot younger than he; he did it with a cough and a gurgle which in engine language means a big fat ha ha, no sweat.

No5 is reliable in his unreliability.

He has a alarming grinding squeak when the brakes do kick in

No5 has brought joy to many during his service as a bush vehicle, earlier is his life being used as a game viewer. One could wonder what this vehicle has seen.

Long may I drive no5

So where do guides go when on leave from the bush? Leave fro there lodge? Well most of us go back into the bush, on our own private safari. Most of us book into a camping in a wildlife reserve so we can explorer at our own pace, we can “do it” in our own time. That is exactly what I and the beautiful distraction (girlfriend) did. A few days in Kruger to restore our equilibrium.  A few braai’s, some game driving with beer in hand, good company and a blow up mattress in a tent.

Before hitting Kruger hard, we had a much deserved break in a backpackers up north, very bright colors, walls in red,blues,greens and other colors of the rainbow, some décor that looked like to came from a cycadelic 1980’s collection(those same painting in four different colors style), African art mixed with retro modern, in fact I saw a plague at the check in-desk, all framed and with gold trimmings etc,like a doctors certificate in his office  describing it as the best, funkiest backpackers for 2008.

Think they can add a “2008 and all years between including till now” under the funkiest backpackers. As I have stayed in many here and in New Zealand, I can honestly say this was one the best.

From our temporary last-in-the-past-but-still-hip-cool rented room we organized a river cruise on the Oliphant’s river, adjacent to Kruger, what a blast, cruising at a crocodiles pace along the mighty river with elephants and giraffe and more on the river bank. This we followed with a colossal T-bone steak braai back at the dock and an ice cold beer to end the day.

Next day off to Kruger national park.

Driving though a national park in South Africa is not the same as stating and game driving in a wildlife area from a lodge. Big dissimilarity is the amount of vehicles. I guess one gets used to the exclusivity when driving guests in an open land drover, on roads others do not frequent.

In Kruger you will come across all types of vehicles with all combinations of passengers, little mobile fish bowls complete with open mouth occupants and gawking eyes and viewing them was as much fun as trying too and viewing the wildlife in the reserve.

Started off at satara, nice open camp, with oodles to see, lions,buffalo,elephants plains game, plenty of birds, a wild cat in the day and four cheetah that had just killed a warthog 5 minutes before we spotted them, and we only found them, cause I stopped for a Walberg’s eagle in a tree. Stop for the birds and small things and you will be rewarded.

Sometimes the wildlife would come to us, as our last two nights camping, we stayed at Skukuza, the busiest camp in the park, I erected the tent right next to the fence, and of course the resident hyena would pop around the other side of the fence, exactly where we set up house, to check out what we were doing.

Awesome having a hyena no more than three meters away either watching us or calling his whoop whoop on the top of his voice.

This could be creepy every now and then with an eerie hyena stare while you sit and enjoy a cold one…

A greater bush baby was using the tree over our tent as a thoroughfare to get over the fence and out for a nights foraging, was the fence there to keep animals at bay or the real animals, us humans, from afflicting the animals out in the bush?

When one stays in the camping area, be sure to smile and converse with your fellow campers. Many an interesting person we did meet. An interesting fellow from an island north of Australia. A sea kayak adventure guide (reminded me of my river ratings days in new Zealand, I of course did not have the killer tan, nor the dreadlocks as he does) He brought his son and dad to Kruger to experience the African bush.

The son, a very cool surfer kid, complete also with dreadlocks and a killer tan. Like his dad, the kid did not own closed shoes, but was permanently in sandals or barefoot, this cute kid, Really wanted to see hyena, so of course invited surfer kid and dad to view from our tent, to the little kid’s great joy the hyenas did not disappoint, and gave him a good show from meters away as they patrolled the fence. Great to see the amazement on a face that has never seen African wildlife like this. We might just be taking it for granted.

Funny enough beautiful distraction (girlfriend) jumped higher (almost onto me) when our backs were turned and this bone crushing hyena let out a whoop at the top of its lungs. Surfer kid only stood and giggled to himself.

End of Kruger and off to Johannesburg and family visits. The Rest I will give you short version, drank too much, ate too much, did nothing but act like a carrot i.e. veg. had another T-bone at that South African institution “the spur restaurant” came back to the bush.

Good to be back in the bush from the bush, know what I mean.

Hyenas were named spot, Ted and  bangle(she had a radio collar)

Some guests reckon we have it easy, living and working in the bush, some thing it is all day driving around looking at nature, well we too have a our stress and worries. The last few days for instance, let me run thru the last few days, in a short form and not bore you with the details.

AS many would have picked up, there is a little thing called the soccer world cup in south Africa at present, this would mean a increase of international visitors to south Africa and hence a increase of visitors to my lodge i.e. WE Are BUSY. Well booked at the camps.

Been a few niggled things pop up here and there the last week, radio in my game viewer not functioning correctly, flat tyre etc  and a very slow reserve, seems someone forgot the gate open and the animals have all left…

Had guests arrive for another ranger few days back, had to rush them thru a check in and then link out with said ranger to hand over the guests somewhere in the reserve, of course could not link out as could not contact other ranger on radio, so had to do a impromptu drive them myself, with no cooler box for drinks break,(in Africa there is no excuse for a warm beer) no tracker, no spot light, no jersey, gloves etc (yes we are in winter) so a short drive, with freezing hands only my personal torch on the way home. When we did get home (did I mention cold) found we had no water in camp, which is the whole camp, from top to bottom has no water. Fight with the staff to come help (staff would rather have watched the soccer than help) pull up a 100 meter pipe from the bore hole to fix the pump at night. Water know trickling into water tanks, barley coming in. have to inform guests that we are on water restrictions, I have to switch off water for lengthy periods while the tanks refill at a snail pace.

Next day get my own guests, but have a stand in tracker who is not very good, and I have to remind him a few times it is impolite to swear on the game viewer. Game viewer is old to say the least, a bumpy ride ensues, and half way home the spot light breaks, with few animals seen. No hot water bottles either for guests, I feel like an idiot.

Dinner has me telling same guests can not shower as water restrictions… next morning, radio not working; I have borrowed my handheld radio to another ranger as he has nothing at all…

Next day, water still not pumping properly, tent 11 has leaking toilet, some guests understandably not happy with water times I have put in place. Miss breakfast as running around fixing camp problems. Arrange for some of my guests to go to other camp to watch soccer. These runs to other camp to watch soccer is becoming a regular appearance, so up at 5am go all day and in bed by 11pm.

Took a tight corner a little too hastily, Drove my tracker through a buffalo thorn, ripped his shirt, guests must think I am a moron driver. No animals or not much. Having to resort to Ferrari safari, just to sight some more awesome animals. Dislike Ferrari safari (being polite to say dislike)

Last morning woke up, brush teeth and dress, walk to main building to receive guests for drive, still busy wiping the sleep grip that accumulates in the corner of your eye, when grass splinters, twigs snap and turmoil, out the corner of my eye, no less than 3 meters away, out of the long grass, like a apparition, two gigantic horns rise out of the grass! BUFFALO! He rises there while I am caught in the open and taken by surprise! Training to hell, instinct kicks in, swearing and flashes of possible male lion charging,(lions do not have horns) leap in the air like a girl, more swearing when training takes over after that first split second and I stand my ground to confront. My god! Lucky for me the

Buffalo got a fright like me and ran in the opposite direction. (Possibly also swearing in buffalo lingo) made it to the lodge, still shaking. Had he not ran but took two steps foreword; he would have gored me before my morning coffee! Buffalo around camp every night is no longer a joke. Going to have a beer now and re group tonight. Lesson learned never forget where you are…

He lives to type this blog, maybe some other day…reason I am still shaking.

Buffalo 1 Ranger 0

Guests for that afternoon for me, only going to arrive at 8pm, gates close at 6, so have to contact reserve and arrange, also need our vehicle to meet them at the gate to show them the way in the dark. Late dinner and late check in, always wrong!

Bored with this, Rest of week in point form…

Some lights on pathway, not working, no spares to be had in camp

Chest in tent 9 broken by guests, they left and did not say a word

Monkeys are playing havoc around camp looking for food

Flat tyre at 5.45 am this morning, broke record changing to spare tyre

Vehicle leaking oil? Can not find source

Guests not happy with other vehicle (other guests or ranger), have to transfer to mine, know have 10 guests plus tracker on my old landy

Guests broke bar stool, Drunk Mexican soccer fans?

Utility old (read very old and tired) landy has been towing a tractor tyre behind, and know the chassis has cracked on both sides.

Buffalo encounters almost every night while walking back to my room.

…

The list goes on…

However I end the week with a sighting of note, 4 leopards, yep 4, a male, female and two cubs on a waterbuck kill. Makes it all worthwhile. Another reason to be shaking, this time, not an unhappy shake…

Back from leave and almost had half a bum cheek back in the saddle. meaning that I am back in the bush after a leave, had a drive or two but am not driving too much this month, boo hoo, will have to enjoy the bush from the lodge deck. On leave had a new addition to my sister’s family, great to see a new baby.

Baby’s in the bush will be coming end of this year, we have just completed the rut season, breeding season for many, most of all the impala, great to see the male strutting and roaring there stuff around the bush, trying to put on a good show for the females, nice to see males cavort and prance and put the effort into winning there right to breed, impala with a gestation of six and a half months will bring the storks bearing young impala in time for Christmas this year. Look foreword to that.

The herds of buffalo also have young at present, ranging from a week to a few weeks; I have sent the herds sporadically the last few times. Over all though, since returning, and having a few drives, the general consensus is that it is quite in our region of the bush. Not too much to report on game activities in the immediate area, and some of the drives have seen us range a little further and move a little quicker to get there.

Of course not all things are out far in the bush, whilst walking a guest back to there accomadation, after dinner so therefore in the dark, in the corner of my eye I saw a movement, at first the glance told me lioness, large, sleek and silky. But as I brought the torch light up to bear, it illuminated a female leopard, rather large if I say so myself, she was moving thru camp, in-between the buildings in the direction of the lodge waterhole in the front of the main deck. Guest and I had a full one second to

1.see her

2. identify it as leopard

3.anaylyse what we could do, should she change direction.

All this in a second and she was gone. Poof like the magic dragon, gone. But that is how leopard sightings go.

Drives themselves have become cold, lekker warm days hitting as much as 28 degrees, yes for us lucky few winter us could mean 28 degrees, however, when the sun dips below the horizon, or before the sun peeks up over the morning horizon, it is cold, a bearable cold but a cold that can only be shaken with the hot water bottles we supply for drive. Lucky for a ranger, we are immune to the cold, we have thick blood. We feel neither cold nor discomfort, or so it seems…

Do not always enjoy these cold moment beginnings to a morning drive, these cold moments in the morning are unloved, like orphans.

Swear I could hear the cats laughing at us, playing there cat and mouse (excuse the pun) laughing and talking amongst them themselves in lion talk, “come try and find us”

Here in the north where grass is as high as an elephant’s eye, ok so not that high but still well above my door, Grass that is covering a few square kilometers, grass that was as high as a man’s shoulder if you were unlucky enough to be walking in the north. And here I was, here I was suppose to find the pride of lions? The guests I had were really keen to see the big cats. Out there somewhere maybe around the next barely-can see-corner was 16 of them.

And as usual, persistence pays, found them lounging in the only open area amongst that tick ridden grass for a kilometer in every direction. Doing what big cats do, try to look like small cuddly cats. Lording it over the plains in that typical “I could give a…” look that lions have. Guest’s happy, tracker happy and I beaming from ear to ear.

This with an afternoon drive with the dogs being back in town. Looks like one or two of the pack are pregnant, watch this space.

The following 3 days had a couple from Belgium on honeymoon, and they not only brought with them, sunscreen and fear of the bush (that fear that says we will be eaten, fear things are out to get you, but we are here anyway, the ranger will protect us, type fear)

Believe me, things are not out here to get you, safer here than most big cities. Animals fear us and our greed more than we need to fear them.

They brought all this and some heavy luggage from Belgium (did they think they needed to bring there entire wardrobe for the African bush?)And they brought luck with them, oodles of luck as we I went about my business of driving around giving an interpretation of the bush and finding the four legs and a heartbeat for the cameras, this we did at a phenomenal rate. We found wildlife sightings like those guys who work at a driving range, find golf balls. Elephants, rhino bulls, buffalo and buffalo herds, impala and zebra enjoying the late season green grass, a journey of giraffe or two and those 16 lions devouring a wildebeest. All that and so much more. Birds coming out of my ears.

Luck was with us, as we found the five most sought after animals (big 5) to see in the bush one after the other, and all of them posing nicely for photographs. Along with all the other of gods creations. Normally I could stretch this over a few days but we bagged up all good sighting on the first days and first morning. This including an elephant encounter on a bushwalk after breakfast. That was a time for rational fear and caution.

Of course know that we had see most on the first time to Africa honeymooners list, we could spend the rest of the time cruising around, anything else being a bonus, and I could spend time showing off knowledge on birds and trees, but did we get that bonus at this slow pace, you betcha! Two leopard cubs in a drainage line, oblivious to the vehicle, just playing around. Awesome and beautiful. Click, snap whir goes the cameras. Best leopard sighting of my career.

However we were not done, as the two cubs then sighted  a puff adder, a venomous snake and proceeded to investigate it, I of course called this on the game drive channel, and the response from all those that were listening, was that just this once against the rules out here, I had to interfere and separate them. They all asked me to go against the grain and interfere with the natural order of the bush. Long story short, you have me about 20 meters from the safety of my car, a large irritated puff adder 2 meters away and one of the cubs, being cheeky sitting watching me about 6 meters away. And where was mommy leopard? Never in my life did I expect the cub not to run, to sit there, and watch me whilst on foot! Insane! And still were was mommy leopard with here cub so close to a human on foot! So now what goes through my head?

1. Retreat and risk a cub getting a snake bite that will kill it. This is no good!
2. keep eyes in the back of my head for mom leopard, chase the snake and save the day

No real choice there, the Belgians had a good eyeful of my backside in the air whilst I was knees down under the bushes chasing a venomous a snake and a bemused leopard cub was watching. Worst of all, gave my camera to my tracker and he didn’t even take a photo!

Belgian honeymooners bought me a few beers that night.

The rest of this week has been manual labor, no guests this side, so slashing of fire breaks, fixing of roads, blisters on hand, tick bitten feet and sweaty t-shirts. Not all good all the time. Only a hand slasher, grass a meter high and a hundred meteres to cut.

At least I can know say bring on the fires season.

Right know I am going to take my very sore from unaccustomed labor, body back to my bed, crack a beer and remember that one time with the leopards…they will be around for a few more photo sessions.

To coin a famous line, it was the best of times it was the worst of times, actually it has been a great couple of days. I have had a tour group of travel agents visit our lodge for two nights, a great bunch of Australians, and from now on ,travel agents in a herd or bunch will be referred to as a

 ”tour” of travel agents.

We had great game sightings, only missing the leopard of the big stuff to see. But most others we did manage to get a close look at, including a fantastic cheetah sighting, I am lucky in that were I conduct my game drive’s ,there is a resident coalition of four cheetah brothers we see fairly often.

Four full grown adult, in there prime, lean and mean cheetah that have slowly become habituated to the vehicles. One can not drive over there tail so to speak, but can get about six meters from them with out them spooking and galloping off.

Cheetahs are sleek, sexy and beautiful. Built like a Ferrari, built for speed. Reaching speeds of a 100km to 110km, depending on the individual. However there is a drawback, they are over-specialized for speed and so are defenseless against larger predators like lion, leopard and hyena. Even vultures can push a cheetah off a kill. That is not saying much for a predator of this size.

Back at camp all is as is, not too much to report. Other than the amount of rain that has fallen in the last few weeks. The grass is summer green, and no we are not in summer. The bush around is lush and bursting, trees and grass competing for space. And with all this foliage around, not so easy to see far ahead, this is what happened the other night, my girlfriend who from know will be referred to as “the beautiful distraction” was front side of the lodge waiting for I to return from drive, when past saunters a LEOPARD. 

Now this is at night, alone and on foot, a few meters away is a big leopard tom (male). Funny thing is instead of panic or retreat back to safety of a building, the beautiful distraction got exited and wanted to follow it down the pathway, see where it goes. Lucky good sense prevailed.

At the end of it all, I have a few more good drives, good memories of genuine and interesting people and a nasal cold. Thanks to all that moist rain and all. Everybody has checked out and I am going to grab a few beers, sit back and nurse my cold. Wait for the next tour to come in.

Cheetah brothers

Back from leave and almost back in the saddle. Been a rest in the big smoke, the big smoke being Johannesburg. That is if you can rest in the big smoke? Had a chance to reflect again on the last couple of weeks in the bush, some funny moments and then some more funny moments.

Rock Python

Had to chuckle when I think of our poor trackers, those that sit on the little seat on the front on top of the bonnet, looking for game and spotting spoor, indicating to us rangers where to possible go according to the tracks they find. They (the tracker) and I work as teams to try come up with the four legs and a heartbeat. Most have amazing eyes and can spot a green snake in a green tree or a lion swoosh its tail at 50 yards.

Shame, I have lost count of how many spiders have built there web across the road and I have driven my tracker right through that web, leaving the poor spider hanging onto my tracker for all it is worth, until he gentle deposits it on the next tree close to the road. They never complain , my trackers no matter how many spiders they get a face full off nor when I take the corner (we go back later and out it back) and they are halve buried in the tree that was on that corner. How many close brushes with thorn trees I give these guys every drive is embarrassing and they do not moan.

They need these thorn trees in there lap like I need to take a bowling ball on drive with me, some of these encounters are close though, I had been driving down a particular “tall grass on the side of the road” patch with the sun below the horizon, visibility not so good, out the corner of my eye I saw a snake crossing , just at the last minute, that is to say, he was about to go under my front left wheel should I continue, so naturally what do I do, I hit anchors. But on the front left is where my tracker was, and I say was, as I hit brakes hard, he went flying off the vehicle, almost onto the snake. Managed just to doge the snake as the car flung him forward. Not a word, just a look in my direction, a look that said it all and back onto the bonnet with a smile just reaching the corners of his eyes.

I have had my tracker sit patently on the front whilst lions were a mere two or three meters from where he sat. All exposed on the front and all. Never forget Devance (a tracker) and myself tracking (no pun intended) the group of 7 lions down by the big dam, we saw where they walked, we saw where they stopped and lay to rest and where they were heading. After a half hour further along there chosen route, we bumped into them (they is they were obscured by grass until the last minute, then I was on top of them) engorging themselves on a buffalo cow they had killed no more than a half hour before. Here with fresh meat and nervous lions eating, all deviance did was sit back on his seat in front and enjoy the show. Having munching and crunching lions 2 meters away, glancing up and growling every know and then and all he does is seat back on his perch on the front of the Land rover , throw a cheeky grin  at the guests and smile. Gotta love the nerves!

Buffalo herds, elephant herds, rhino, male buffalo dagga boys and coalitions of cheetah and more, all no sweat for our trackers, there “office” on the front of my vehicle gives them the best seat in the house.

Poor Phillip (another tracker) on route home, him with the spotlight, tying to get the eye shine, when a bushbaby (small nocturnal monkey type) jumps the tree and lands no less than in his lap, Phillip of course unceremoniously dumps the bushbaby off his lap, onto the nearest bush, this little nocturnal creature then turns and jumps again onto Phillip, he of course now things this is a estranged  bushbaby out for vengeance? Attacking him? Yes even grown up trackers can shriek like girls. This poor little bushbaby attacked Phillip three times before I could control my laughter and speed of away from the scene, of the almost violation by a bushbaby. Elephant charge he can take, but an attacking bushbaby?

All respect to the guys who sit in front and take it all in.

Take it slow

We can never take it for granted.

The “we”, being the guides and people who work and live out in the southern African bush.  We who are privileged to be able to call the South African bush home. I, being part of that, have been very fortunate in my chosen career. And I do get reminded of this by the many brilliant guests that I have the pleasure of meeting. This may be a once-off-trip or the umpteenth time visit to the bush for them, either way the sheer excitement, curiosity and down right joy for them being here is infectious. Read the rest of this entry »

Lions everywhere or none

Some days are slower; this morning was one of those days, not much happening in the African bush, not much at all.

Seems that someone forgot to close the gate last night and all the animals left? That is how we roll, and this morning was more typical, not always do we have four legs and a heart beat parading around for a photo. In these cases we can cruise, observe the smaller fauna and birds, and trees and… It’s nice to be out there wind blowing you back, listening for that faint rustle or call, smelling that fresh dung in the morning.

But not always… Read the rest of this entry »

I deserve a beer and a smoke after the snake in a tent incident (see below)

Having not driven for a few days you would expect there would not be too much for me the report on. On the contrary. There is always something happening in the bush. I also have guests in my camp even though I am not driving them myself. I still have to host (I enjoy hosting and meeting guests from all over our little planet.) Read the rest of this entry »

Sore backs and scaly backsBeen a long time since I posted an update. Assortments of adventures and misadventures have been taken place in the last year. Suffice to say and not wanting to bore anyone with mundane days that have taken place. I will skip the nitty gritty details.

From broken landrovers on the 31 December, to Cape Town trips and goodbyes to the previous lodge and staff. To a long break in cape town and purchasing a new car.

Let me get to the crunch.

Ranger DK has moved on to another lodge, with girlfriend in tow. Leaving and starting new is never easy, it has its little difficulties, sort t of like trying to roll a bowling ball across mud. You sink and you recover, and you roll again. Read the rest of this entry »